Srebrenica. Never Forget.

So I’ve been debating about posting this. It’s kind of one of those experiences in life that’s almost too much. Too much visually. Too much sorrow. Too much to take in. Too much. Too much. Too much.

The reason I decided to post about this experience is because I think people at home – you – need to understand – or attempt to understand why I am here. Of course you all know I work in anti-trafficking and in women’s rights, but that’s not the sole reason I’m here. I’m here because there was a horrific war that took place less than 20 years ago. I’m here because there was genocide. I’m here because I think we forget about others in the world and what they have gone through. I know I’ve lived a privileged life, but I’m always struck with how privileged when I hear stories from individuals who have survived massacre and genocide.

On Friday I went to Srebrenica. I’m not going to write out a lengthy explanation of what happened at Srebrenica. At the risk of sounding un-academic, Wikipedia it. All I will say is that in 3 days over 8000 Bosnian Muslims were murdered in what was supposed to be a UN safe zone and no one did anything to stop it all based upon the orders of Ratko Mladić. He is currently on trial at the Hague for the part he played - he has been in hiding for the past 20 years since the indictment and was found last year. He shows no remorse for his crimes.

Having been to Cambodia and seeing the Killing Fields there (in which well over a million people died and more than 20,000 mass graves were found in a senseless genocide), I figured I was more prepared than most for this experience. I wasn’t. I don’t think one can ever be prepared or get used to visiting sites of senseless killings and genocide. I don’t think we’re meant to. 

Our guide was a Bosniak who had survived the trek from Srebrenica to Tuzla. His father and brother did not. 

The explanation from the museum.

Carved into the wall at the battery factory - right next to the UN housing facilities.

A memorial - women and children survivors looking for, praying for, crying over their lost men and boys.

The only Catholic grave at Srebrenica - all of the others are Muslim.

There are still identifying bodies - every year in July they bring those identified bodies here to bury them in this memorial and cemetery.

These pictures were difficult to take - and to be honest, I didn't take nearly as many pictures as I normally do on these outings. The point was to have just enough so I wouldn't forget - anything.

I spent a significant amount of time wandering throughout the cemetery. In these situations I tend to need to get out my emotions in the form of song. It sounds strange - whatever - but music is my emotional release. I wished I knew some sort of Muslim hymn or song as a sign of respect to the victims of the genocide, but since I didn't I found myself singing Amazing Grace. Not loudly - just enough for me to mourn with those who were there visiting their relatives who were lost in the massacre.

I ended my day reading over this passage, as it had been going through my head the entire time: 

Do you not know?

    Have you not heard?

The LORD is the everlasting God,

    the Creator of the ends of the earth.

He will not grow tired or weary,

    and his understanding no one can fathom.

He gives strength to the weary

    and increases the power of the weak.

Even youths grow tired and weary,

    and young men stumble and fall; 

but those who hope in the LORD

    will renew their strength.

The will soar on wings like eagles;

    they will run and not grow weary,

    they will walk and not be faint.

Isaiah 40:28-31

This post is probably more for my sake than yours - but I hope it helps you to understand more of what has happened here in Bosnia. I hope you don't forget. I know I never will.

TWIL: Dubrovnik Edition Part II

This weekend I learned...

That sleeping on the balcony is much better in theory than in practice - when the wind starts to blow at 4:30am you will freeze and when the sun comes up over the hills around 7am you will melt - in all getting maybe 4 hours of sleep - though you will get an amazing view immediately after waking up.

That Dubrovnik is busier during the middle of the day when all the cruise ships port - it's best to avoid it from about 11-4.

If you sit/hang out around the ticket man's stand while he is away people will think that you are the ones selling tickets and offering information and will continue to hound you for said things.

That Dubrovnik is still pretty from any vantage point.

That the shuttle boat from Dubrovnik to Lokrum is a fantastic investment.

That you look funny when it's just pictures of you by yourself in them all over Dubrovnik - so make sure you grab some less than enthusiastic friend to join you.

That there is more than one "Dead Sea" in the world - though I believe the other to be slightly more spectacular.

That Lokrum is a beautiful island.

That rocks are not nearly as comfortable as sand when wishing to lay out on the beach.

That climbing the rocks to the top of the cliff is much easier than jumping off the cliff.

That landing on your bum in the water is not the best idea, but purposefully having your feet rise out of the water first instead of your head will garner enough laughter out of everyone that it won't matter.

That it's not just my mother that worries about me when I climb out on cliffs overlooking a rocky coastlines.

That Kat is happiest when she's laying out at the ocean with sun and a sea breeze on her face.

That swimming up to pretty rocks in the ocean when the tide is beating on them is probably not the brightest idea.

That funny faces never get old.

That Kat is an excellent stuff watcher whilst the rest of the group swims in the ocean.

That Anya has model hair that dries more quickly than anyone else's in the world and looks perfect without trying.

That sometimes it's okay to not go with the rest of the group to get a little more relax and sunshine time with the Adriatic - you can have a drink on a couch anytime.

That the "Dead Sea" is absolutely beautiful at sunset with no one in the water.

That while this may look like a playground it's actually an outdoor gym.

That Dan knows what every piece of equipment is, how to use it properly, and what muscles it works out - he will also try to get you to use them, to which you will respond "no, thank you" (because you have to be polite - he's Canadian)

That Kat gets along with animals sometimes better than people - which I totally understand and feel the same way (not directed at her - just to be clear - just people in general).

That Angie really loves peacocks.

That I prefer to stay a good distance from the peacocks that are all over the island - they aren't very nice.

That if you tell a group of people to make funny faces, most will listen - but you'll have a couple out outliers.

That learning how to use your DSLR properly makes life and pictures so much better.

That you should make sure you come back to Dubrovnik on the shuttle during sunset, because you get views like this:

That it's okay to completely ditch everyone to get these shots from the front of the boat - while they crowd around somewhere else in the back.

That the water in Dubrovnik is delicious and you shouldn't pay for bottled water as long as you have a water bottle handy to fill up.

That trying to stand on this just because you saw it on "The Bachelorette" can be fun, but it's probably best not to take off your shirt to do so (as is supposedly required).

That it's okay to wander around Dubrovnik by yourself if everyone else wants to go back to the hostel and you're not ready - you just might get front row (backstage) seats to see an amazing Croatian male singing group adding another layer of amazingness to your holiday in Dubrovnik.

That you should have paid more attention during the day to the shops so you could have gone into the store with your middle name (spelled correctly) to explore it - now all you get is this silly picture.

That a perfect end to an evening can be a cider and filling out postcards to friends and family while sitting all by yourself at a bar.

That waking up at 5:15am is worth it when you're going on a walk with a new friend who is leaving so you can have a proper goodbye of taking pictures of pretty doors.

That if you make friends with a random dog (that you name Sunce), she will follow you around, jump in the water after you, and will adopt you as her new humans.

That you will be sad to say goodbye to Dubrovnik and the Adriatic - really, really sad.

That even with all the personality quirks and mishaps, you can have a pretty amazing weekend in Dubrovnik as long as you have a positive attitude.

That one of your favorite spots in Bosnia will become a place where all the buses stop for a break - the view, breeze, and fresh air is all beautiful.

That Dubrovnik is a must see - and was definitely worth the near decade of longing and waiting.